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Cistercian monastery
of Viaceli
(Cóbreces) |
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This area,
known as the Merindad (Jurisdictional District) de
las Asturias de Santillana, is in the western half of
Cantabria. Its existence is documented as of the 13th
century. It stretched from the mouth of the Deva on the
Asturian border to the mouth of the Miera, where the Merindad
of Trasmiera begins. Its border reached the mountain
range of the Cordillera Cantábrica to the South. The
area is made up of several valleys that run perpendicular
to the coast; for the purpose of this itinerary we have
designated three distinct parts. Coastal
Route.
First there is the coastal route, with
extremely interesting places such as Santillana del mar,
Comillas and San Vicente de la Barquera.
The town of Santillana del Mar (see
Santillana del Mar: Town of Nobility and
Monasticism) has a very
rich artistic heritage from the Middle Ages to the 18th
century. The origin of this town was a small hermitage
where a handful of monks enshrined the relics of Santa Juliana in the 8th century. Soon this small hermitage
became a monastery supported by the nobility and the
Crown, as shown by documents dating from the 9th century.
The Romanesque collegiate church that still stands today
was built on the site of this monastery in the mid-12th
century. Its chapel houses an altarpiece of the early 16th century, whose sculptural and
pictorial features are extremely interesting. The cloister is particularly outstanding, with its varied
collection of capitals. Also medieval is the lay
architecture constellated around the main square, like
the towers of Don Borja and of Merino, and the nearby tower of Velarde and the house of Doña Leonor de la Vega. In the early 17th century the Dominican
monastery of Regina Coeli and Dominican convent of San Ildefonso were built. But the most fruitful period in
terms of lay architecture was that began in the two
latter decades of the 17th century and continued
throughout the 18th century. The palaces and casonas
that can be seen all throughout the town belong to this
period. All these buildings became feasible through the
wealth brought back from the American colonies by indianos
(colonial settlers) returning to their homeland.
Near Santillana, and on the way to
Comillas,is the town of Cóbreces, where there is an important group of
neo-Gothic buildings put up at the turn of the century.
This group is the Cistercian monastery of Viaceli -whose church is one of the earliest concrete
structures in Spain- and the parish church. In the upper
reach of Cóbreces there is an 18th-century casona,
"El Castro", that is perfectly preserved and
features a chapel as an extension. Near Cóbreces,
heading inland, is the village of Novales, where there is
an important 16th-century church: a valuable example of a
columnar church. Very near Novales is Cigüenza; its church,
reminiscent of Spanish colonial buildings of its same
period, is one of the best examples of Cantabrian
Baroque. The next town along the route is Comillas, a
fishing village that contains an important set of
Modernist architecture thanks to the patronage of the
Marquises of Comillas (see Comillas:
Town of the Picturesque and the Modern). The palace of Sobrellano, with its
chapel-pantheon, the Pontificial University College and
Gaudí's Capricho folly are splendid proof of
this. Once through the natural park of Oyambre one
reaches San Vicente de la Barquera, an essentially maritime town; an interesting
place to visit here is the Puebla Alta (High
Town), a longitudinal urban strand that is the oldest
quarter of the town, and which later spread outside the
original town walls to the neighbourhoods of La Mar and
Tenerías. Sections of the medieval town walls, with
double-leaved gates, still remain, as does the castle;
the evidence suggests that a castle stood on this site
from very far back, though what remains now is
14th-century. Before reaching the church one finds the
Town Hall, formerly the Hospital of the Corro family, which has a notable Renaissance façade. At
the far end of the old quarter is the church of Santa María
de los Ángeles, whose
construction began in the early 13th century in a
Burgundian Gothic style. Inside, the remarkable feature
is the Corro family chapel, with two sepulchres -one of
which is Gothic, the other Renaissance. In the lower
reach of the town is the bridge of Maza, a large
Renaissance structure. As for popular architecture, the
porticoed fishermen's houses of San Vicente are highly
interesting.
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